Monday, June 28, 2010

Conditioners: Detanglers using Amaze XT

Yep, Amaze XT has some wet and dry detangling properties we can use to make some gel based detanglers. We covered a bit about this product in the building viscosity post on surfactants, but let's re-cap and add a bit more to our knowledge base.

You can use a product like Amaze XT (INCI: Dehydroxanthan gum) to thicken your surfactants or to use as a base for a detangling gel. It's anionic, and it's compatible with silicones, propylene glycol, hydrolyzed proteins, EDTA, sodium phosphate, and low levels of Flexan II, a polymer used in hair styling products (3:1 ratio of Amaze XT to Flexan II). Use it at 1% to 2% to create a gel without neutralization in the heated water phase of the product. It is soluble in water and alcohol. You can't use paraben based preservatives with Amaze XT based gels, which means Phenonip and Germaben II are right out. You can use liquid Germall Plus, Optiphen ND, and Tinosan SDC without problems (although if you're using cationic ingredients like cationic quaternary compounds or cationic polymers, you can't use Tinosan).

The ideal pH for products containing Amaze XT is between 4.5 and 6, which is right where we want our skin and hair care products. Below 4.5, you'll see a decrease in clarity, so you can add a little salt at 0.1% to make it a little more viscous.

It will provide long lasting hold in humid conditioners, so you can make hair gels out of this and it won't run down your face or attract too much moisture to your hair! Yep, this product will create some hold for your hairstyle, so it can act as a light hair gel without adding any of the sticky stuff we normally associate with those products! So this may help keep your curls a little curlier and less frizzy!

Combine Amaze XT with cetrimonium chloride and you'll have yourself a clear, slightly thickened conditioning gel with great detangling properties!

DETANGLING GEL WITH CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE
HEATED PHASE
94.5% water
3% cetrimonium chloride
1% Amaze XT

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance oil (optional)
0.5% preservative

DETANGLING AND LIGHT CONDITIONING GEL WITH CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE
HEATED PHASE
92.5% water
3% cetrimonum chloride
1% Amaze XT
2% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat-7

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance oil
0.5% preservative

If you want to make a styling type gel, you can increase the Amaze XT to 2% and you will get some curl retention! Yay!

Let's take a look at making a conditioning styling gel with detangling properties. And let's include all those lovely things we like for our hair!

DETANGLING, LIGHT CONDITIONING, AND STYLING GEL WITH DETANGLING PROPERTIES USING AMAZE XT
HEATED PHASE
88.5% water
2% Amaze XT
2% hydrolyzed protein
2% cetrimonium chloride

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% cationic polymer like polyquat 7 or honeyquat
2% panthenol
1% fragrance oil (optional)
0.5% preservative

For all of these recipes, you'll want to heat the water phase - except the Amaze XT - to about 70˚C. Sprinkle the Amaze XT into the heated water and mix well until it is dissolved. Remove from heat and let cool to 45˚C, then add your cool down ingredients!

Oh, and here's a bonus, apparently Amaze XT is Ecocertified!

Join me tomorrow for some light leave-in conditioners made with cationic polymers!

21 comments:

p said...

What a cool post - I was wondering if you would get into a discussion of styling products!

I was confused by this sentence in your post: "Below 4.5, you'll see a decrease in clarity, so you can add a little salt at 0.1% to make it a little more viscous." Are you saying that below pH 4.5 the gel will be cloudy anyway, so you can add salt to increase viscosity with no added harm (namely that salt tends make gels cloudy)? Or are you saying that salt at 0.1% will increase the clarity of the gel?

(By the way, I almost never get confused like this when I read your blog - your writing is admirably clear! Your blog truly rocks. :)

I was wondering, what the heck _is_ dehydroxanthan gum? How do the manufacturers alter xanthan gum so that it has these wonderful properties? (I read the spec pdf you linked to but couldn't find anything!) How would these recipes perform if made with plain old, less processed xanthan gum?

Thanks!
p

p said...

So I took the plunge and bought some Amaze XT, and I love it!! I've made some simple styling gels that I really like. :)

I just tried to make a styling and glossing creme based on a leave-in conditioner with Amaze XT added at 2% for curl retention and hold - it didn't work out so great! I'd love some advice... here's my recipe:

3% btms 50
2% cetyl alcohol
10% rosemary hydrosol
4% aloe vera gel
2% cetrimonium chloride
2% amaze xt
2% panthenol
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
0.75% preservative
1% essential oil
0.5% rosemary antioxidant
distilled water to 100%

And here's what I did... In one container I heated the btms-50 & cetyl alcohol; in another I heated the waters (including the rosemary hydrosol, aloe vera gel, and cetrimonium chloride). I heated both to 70 C and held for probably 10 minutes (not 20 like I should have - I cut a corner here!).

I took the waters off the heat and sprinkled in my Amaze XT - instant jelling! Awesome - a nice, thick gel. I mixed it with my hand mixer, and everything started to go wrong - the gel lost its structure, breaking up into little bits and getting watery!

When I poured my waters into my oils and beat again with a hand mixer, the emulsion looked fine, but the texture was weird, sort of tiny gel-like bits suspended in a watery liquid. I added my cool-down phase and mixed again, packaged - and now I have a tiny-gel-bits-in-watery-soup product! Nuts.

I'm wondering what I did wrong... maybe I should have made my leave-in conditioner as usual, only adding the Amaze XT to the finished product, stirring very gently to combine but not break up the gel? Have you experimented with adding Amaze XT to conditioners that contain btms?

Thanks in advance for your help!!

Anonymous said...

I would like to try this. Any thoughts on how I can purchase Amaze XT?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous. I get mine at Voyageur Soap & Candle (Surrey, BC), but there are other retailers...I just don't know of any in the States.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi p. I'm not sure what happened, but it could have been the high shear rate of the hand mixer didn't agree with the Amaze XT. Or it could be the addition of ingredients that contain a lot of salt, like aloe vera, which can break down the gel.

In a few of the recipes I have for Amaze XT, they note that you can heat up the waters, then sprinkle in the Amaze XT into the waters at up to 80˚C, mix it, then remove from heat. Perhaps that's an option? Sift the Amaze XT into the waters then heat to 70˚C? I don't see them heating and holding this recipe for very long, though, so you might want to get the two phases to 70˚C, then remove and combine. (Yeah, I know I always say heat and hold, but I'm going with the manufacturer's suggestions.)

I have not been able to find any recipes suggested by the manufacturer using BTMS, but it fell apart before then, so I'm thinking that's not the issue. My suggestion is to sprinkle the Amaze XT into the waters, then heat them, and see what happens. I still think the aloe vera might have something to do with it - I haven't been able to find any suggested recipes with aloe in them at all, and aloe is known to break down gels of all sorts - so you could try leaving that out in one experimental batch.

Okay, after looking some more, I found a recipe with Incroquat S-85 (like CR) and they heat the water phase with the Amaze XT and the oil phase and combine them after heating and holding, so it can be done with a cationic quaternary compound! It can also be added after you heat and hold the two phases and mix them together (according to another recipe).

I hope I've offered a few options you can try here. Let us know how it goes!

As an aside, in the data bulletin they say you can't use Amaze XT with parabens, yet in every single recipe I found from the manufacturer, they're using parabens as the preservative! What's up with that?

p said...

Thanks a ton, Susan! I will definitely give this a try without aloe vera gel. As an experiment, I tried sprinkling Amaze XT on room temperature water, and it instantly made a terrific gel; I tried sprinkling it on a room temperature leave-in conditioner I made (1% btms-50, 2.5% babassu oil, 5% aloe vera gel, 2% each hydrolyzed oats & panthenol, plus eo and preservative) and no gelling at all, just breaking up into yucky bits. I'm looking at you, aloe vera!

I'll let you know how it goes!

Aesthete said...

Hi Swift, I've read the product description of Dehydroxanthan gum on Voyguer's webpage(which states u can use it in showergels & face cleansers) and the Herbarie(which states it's not compatible with most surfactants. Do you happen to know which surfactants are the exception?or are the statements incorrect? My search on the web has been fruitless.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Aesthete! I took a look at the product the Herbarie, which they call Extraordinary XG, and I'm sure it's Amaze XT. But I'm not sure where they get the information about not using surfactants.

If you look at the data sheet for Amaze XT, there's no indication you can't use it with surfactants. And if you look at these two recipes from Azko Nobel, the company that makes Amaze XT - facial scrub and body wash - they are using a variety of surfactants with the product. (But then again, you'll notice they're using parabens, which they suggest against in the data sheet as they might reduce the viscosity of the gel.) I could post more recipes from the company with surfactants, so they aren't suggesting that you don't use things like SLeS, cocamidopropyl betaine, or decyl glucoside, amongst others.

On a personal note, I've been using as a thickener in surfactant systems for quite some time and I haven't noticed any break down in viscosity in any of them. I've used a variety of surfactants - pretty much all that I own including cocamidopropyl betaine, C14-16 olefin sulfonate, SLeS, SCI, and so on - and I haven't noticed any problems with the gelling (with the exception of today's post, but that was about when I added the Amaze XT because the second batch is just fine!

So to finally get around to answering your question - I'm not sure why the Herbarie says not to use surfactants because the company and my experience both indicate it's just fine to do so!

Aesthete said...

Great! I've been using Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate in this one face cleanser I really like, and I've put double the max in it and it still won't thicken. Gonna give this a try asap. Thank you for clearing that up and sharing your experience with this and all ingredients.

Aesthete said...

hhhmmm, now that I've read today's post, maybe I've been adding HSP at the wrong time:(

Anonymous said...

The starting formulations are nonsense. Amaze XT is an ANIONIC hydro colloid and is NOT compatible with KATIONIC conditioners such as Cetrimonium chloride, btms 50 etc.
You need to use a NONIONIC hydro colloid such as Konjak-Mannan (Amorphophallus Konjak)if you want to use a natural gel base for a conditioner.

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan;I really like your recipes here and I want to make them but the problem is I live in Australia and I don't know any supplier to have Amaze XT or they have it with another name .Have any Idea?or is there any substitute for this Amaze XT.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

If you check out the hair care section on the blog, you'll find recipes for detanglers, conditioners, and leave in conditioners that don't require the Amaze XT. This was just one example of something you could make!

BeUNIQUE HC said...

I would like to say that I have mixed konjac with BTMS, and I have also mixed Amaze XT with BTMS (not BTMS 50). Both times I have made the gel first using 10% aloe concentrate with the water and it worked better with Amaze XT than it did with the Konjac

Michele said...

P
I used Susan's 2nd recipe but added an extract. I wonder if it was the rosemary that did this in your recipe. I had the same results. Without the extract it was fine.

Michele Clarke said...

I have been using the 2nd recipe with Phenonip. THe gel just isn't clear but still works and retains the gel consistency.

HEATED PHASE
94.5% water
3% cetrimonium chloride
1% Amaze XT

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance oil (optional)
0.5% preservative

I have also used it with oat protein and DL Panthenol without issues.

Michele Clarke said...

Would you believe my recipe failed! I know I have used cetac and hydrolyzed oats before. It wouldn't gel. I did try heating it this time. Usually I don't.

I also tested water/hprotein/gum and water/cetac/gum neither wanted to gel. The hydro protein dissolved the gum. The cetac started to gel but kept reverting to a liquid.

So I skipped both and it gelled just fine. I added fragrance, phenonip and panthenol just fine.

Anonymous said...

Do you know any suppliers that carry Flexan II? I would love for you to do some posts on making styling products. I'm the most interested in making hairsprays and hair texturizing waxes/pomades/pastes(this sort of product seems to have many variations and go by various names depending on viscosity and consistency. Generally they are wax based and add texture and hold to hair). I have been experimenting with making these types of products, but I have very little to go on except the ingredient lists from products at the drugstore, and a few formulas I found on Special Chem 4 Cosmetics(but these formulas are NOT designed for use by the home crafter, and usually use lots of ingredients not available to me). So my efforts have been a lot of guesswork and trial and error(mostly error). Please please do a styling wax tutorial!

Bridget

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Bridget. I do have some plans to work with styling products in the near future - I have PVP and Fixate G100, but not Flexan II, as I can't find it myself. I don't use styling products, so I haven't really seen the need to formulate them, but my mom does, so I thought I'd try for her.

Melanie said...

My try on this did not turn out clear. I tried heating per our instructions and it didn't gel at all. Then I tried mixing it in cold water like herbarie says and it made a gel but it is not clear. It is very milky opaque.

88.5% distilled water
2% Extraordinary XG (same INCI as Amaze XT)
2% hydro protein wheat
2% cetac
2% honeyquat
2% panthenol powder
1% beau brummel fragrance oil
1% Optiphen ND
a couple drops of lab color

I mixed it with a hand mixer. Any ideas?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Melanie. The pH could be too low. Your fragrance oil could have made it cloudy. Your choice of preservative might not be the optimal one for making a clear product. There are just too many variables to know which one is the one that makes it not clear. If you want to see which one to remove, start with just the water and Amaze XT and go from there.

Does Extraordinary XG make clear gels? It looks like it should. Liquid Germall Plus is the recommended preservative.